ÁMEZING NEWS #20: GREEK PHARMACY HAUL & A SKINCARE SCANDAL
Greek Goddess Skin starts with your microbiome!
I spent time in Greece earlier this month!
The flight to Greece specifically Mykonos couldn’t have felt longer. If you’re from the west coast, you know that getting to Greece is no easy feat. But alas, we made it. Then we took a ferry from Mykonos to Koufonisia, where I embarked on a week-long yoga retreat hosted by Kyle Miller and Tony Lupinacci. The food was all made by Chef Lauren Gerrie. This was my second yoga retreat (my first was with Kyle in Tuscany, summer 2022). I was thrilled, nervous, anxious but overall very excited.
For context, I’m not super deeply engaged in a yoga practice, although this is something I’m working towards. I will try to keep this brief as I’ve been thinking about my time there everyday since leaving.
I’m having trouble letting go of the feeling of the water. The cerulean blues, the beautiful rocks mixed with sea glass.
The most beautiful meals. Perfect feta.
Waking up and going straight to practice felt amazing. The lubrication of my muscles and joints. Movement! Overall the practice was challenging, intense, fast, and delicious. With slow moments too. Sharing the experience with everyone was beyond special. Practicing yoga together felt so healing. So much laughter, insight, vulnerability and inspiration.
My biggest takeaway was re-establishing my confidence in my own body (much needed after struggling with some chronic pain issues for the last two years). It was also a reminder that breathwork is a very grounding tool that is there for us whenever we need it. I feel really lucky to have been able to participate, and to do so alongside my partner. I’m not doing handstands just yet, but that is definitely on my goal for this year! Of course, athletic goals like that are only second to the inner benefits. I cannot recommend a yoga retreat enough, especially with such knowledgeable instructors like Kyle and Tony. Click the links above to find out more about their upcoming retreats!
PHARMACY HAUL
About 20 years ago, my mom introduced me to KORRES. It was one of the first nature-froward makeup lines and she felt like it was a cleaner line for me to experiment with as a young teen. I’m pretty sure it used to be available at Sephora. Now, you can shop on Ulta or visit the U.S. storefront on Elizabeth Street in Manhattan.
So of course, KORRES was one of the brands I was looking to browse in its country of origin. There was a large section of all the classic French products: La Roche Posay, Vichy, and Bioderma. But I beelined to Korres.
The first things I picked up were the probiotic greek yogurt serum and masque. That’s when I met my new bestie Alexandra, a pharmacist there. In true European fashion, she was kind and eager to help. Unsurprisingly, we could have talked for hours). When she asked me about my skin type, I told her I have very reactive and oily skin. She agreed the greek yogurt line would be a perfect fit for me.
Next, Alexandra pointed me towards another iconic Greek Brand called Apivita, a line I hadn’t seen before. She mentioned it’s been around longer than KORRES, offers a vast range of products, and is known for their SPFs.
I went a little crazy buying from this range, but everything was conveniently so travel-friendly. And thanks to my lovely clients and readers, I get to call that research! She emphasized how fantastic the masks are, and I completely agree. I bought the face aloe mask (moisturizing) and the sea lavender mask (anti-pollution). I also purchased two SPF 50 facial products. One is a gel-cream formula and the other is for sensitive skin types. Back in the studio, I’m already using the hydra-sensitive one on some of my clients.
Lastly, Alexandra was very adamant that I leave with the Apivita carob sheet mask. Apparently, it's a crowd favorite. Carob is a commonly found tree in Greece, which acts as an incredibly detoxifying treatment (alongside charcoal derived from oak). I’m savoring this haul, so I can’t report any results on this sheet mask just yet, but I will most likely try it out this week!
In the end, I also walked away with the entire yogurt-based Korres range (cleanser, serum, day gel- cream, night cream and the treatment mask.) Greece is extremely proud of the yogurt and dairy they produce. It’s inclusion as a hero ingredient in skincare feels wholesome and meaningful, like a Greek-pride thing. It also just honors ancient Greek beauty and health traditions.
I’m happy to report that I have been using the whole range now for about eight days and my skin has never been happier. I’ve had no flare ups! Even better, all of the products offer an instant cooling effect upon application. Such a treat for those of us who have sensitive and reactive skin. No plans to visit Greece? That line is available for purchase here in the US! Hooray!
Greek pharmacies are very accessible, and even affordable. Even the medicine is affordable. Imagine that?! Another perk? I was able to purchase over-the-counter Tretinoin for less than $15 euros a pop. In the U.S., I’d need a prescription and it would be way more expensive.
YOGURT AND YOUR SKIN’S MICROBIOME
Right before my trip, I noticed the French cosmetic chemist Marie Veronique launched an IG campaign where she promoted the idea of using yogurt as your daily cleanser. I thought this was particularly cool because she has a line full of gel and oil cleansers. It was so refreshing to hear her say you don’t need to buy Marie Veronique cleansers – all you need is yogurt.
These are the yogurt strains you want to look out for: Streptococcus thermophilus, Bifidobacterium, and Lactobacilli. These are the skin-friendly strains. They won’t over-colonize the skin, which makes them perfect for treating rosacea and inflammation. These are calming and balancing to the resident bacteria that already live on our face!
Make sure the yogurt you buy says "contains live cultures" or words to that effect somewhere on the label. Marie Veronique suggests Nancy’s Probiotic Yogurt, an independent family owned company that was started in the 1970s.
Yogurt is great for your skin’s microbiome. Microbiome is such a buzz word it is really the core of healthy skin. As Marie Veronique so perfectly explains, “the importance of the microbiome is the sheer balance of the skin and the microorganisms that exist on the skin.” Yes, every human on earth has little microorganisms on the skin that reside in our hair follicles and on the skin’s surface (don’t worry they’re microscopic).
Overgrowth of such resident microorganisms often leads to conditions like fungal acne (also known as Malasezzia). Like all things in nature, our aim is create a healthy balance, not to eliminate these organisms all together. An unhealthy biome can present in many ways, but the most obvious are redness and inflammation, along with textural congestion resulting in comedone breakouts.
If this is a concern, make an effort to keep track of your skin’s color and texture. Are you experiencing any kind of unexpected breakouts or redness that is unusual? Do things feel off and no topicals bring relief or improvement? Does your skin lack a healthy bounce? These are all signs of an unhealthy biome. Ultimately, a compromised barrier comes down to functionality. If your skin feels like it is not absorbing or adjusting properly, this could be a sign that you may have an overgrowth of microorganisms like bacteria or yeast.
This can be caused by so many different things (environmental stressors, genetics, a gut health/GI issues, hormonal imbalances, stress, dehydration). If a client comes in with a visibly compromised biome, consistent treatment and lifestyle changes can make a huge difference.
Hydration! Drinking plenty of water is an easy systemic way to make sure your skin barrier function is supported properly. Remember healthy barrier function = healthy microbiome. Other lifestyle things include eating a balanced diet full of diverse foods, getting proper rest and moving your body.
In terms of products, do not use things that will strip your skin. A compromised skin barrier is often caused by exfoliating too much. Be careful with your chemical exfoliants, retinoids, tretinoin and acids. YOU DO NOT NEED AN OVERLY COMPLICATED ROUTINE. Too many products can overwhelm the skin, leading to a domino-effect that results in an imbalanced microbiome. Of course, the internet, social media, and the over-saturation of the beauty industry are to blame for promoting lengthy routines full of harsh products. LESS IS ALWAYS MORE. START SLOW! I guarantee your skin will be happier and healthier in the end.
My best advice is to strip your routine down to the essentials (cleanser, toner, moisturizer and SPF). Be conservative with your treatments. Start slowly with retinoids and acids (1-2x a week).
I would also take a special look at Marie Veroniques, barrier restore serum as it helps to improve ceramide production in the skin. I had the pleasure of training with the brand in 2017 and have such respect for this brand and ethos. This line is the marriage of science and nature. It may be one of the the best lines for biome-compromised skin–specifically for those who struggle with acne, fungal ace, rosacea, dermatitis and any other inflammatory skin condition.
The great thing is that in the last two years we have seen a huge influx of brands and ranges that are now including products to help support proper barrier function. I’m a big fan of Manyo Factory, Etude House, First Aid Beauty, SkinFix, Dieux Skin, and Dr. Loretta (and their week-old Gel Barrier Cream launch, it’s a perfect product in my opinion). These are all formulated to balance the skin’s barrier function. Check out these brands and more on my BEST PRODUCTS FOR SENSITIVE AND REACTIVE SKIN list on ShopMyShelf here.
[**Disclaimer** If you buy Korres or Apivita products in the U.S., it’s possible the formulations are slightly altered due to American FDA regulations. Always patch-test when trying new products, especially if you are experiencing a microbiome imbalance or have an inflammatory skin condition. And, of course, if your reactive symptoms don’t start to improve within 7-14 days, consult your medical practitioner of choice.]
ÁMEZING TRAILER
Have you watched the “Skincare” trailer yet? I can’t tell you how many of my friends have sent it to me! THE MOVIE LOOKS SO GOOD. I was triggered by how spot-on it feels, in terms of what the worst parts of this industry can be like. The accuracy is scary and exciting!
Starring Elizabeth Banks, Skincare is billed as a fictional story based on true events. Banks plays a celebrity aesthetician who “becomes convinced a rival is out to sabotage her business and destroy her life.” (this is a common feeling in the LA esthetician world, and I have witnessed such
A beauty thriller! Count me in! “A vanity thriller set in Hollywood?” COUNT ME IN!
If you Google Dawn DaLuise, you’ll see the business is now permanently closed. The celebrity-adjacent facial spa on Wilshire was named after its founding esthetician. It shuttered after she was accused of initiating a murder-for-hire plot against a rival facialist in 2014. There was suspicion she hired a hitman to attack her competitor! His name? Gabriel Suarez. Funny enough, Suarez still owns and operates a skincare studio in West Hollywood.
DaLouise was ultimately found not guilty, and as it turns out, Suarez might not have been completely innocent in the situation either. Apparently, right around the same time he opened a skin business across the street from DaLouise, flyers and Craigslists posts began to circulate that DaLouise was soliciting partners for free sex parties. The address listed on these ads? Her skincare studio. For more sordid (and potentially triggering) details, read the extensive LA Magazine feature here.
The movie is out August 16th! See you there ;)
ÁMEZING QUESTION
Natalia asks, “What Vitamin C serum would you recommend?”
I have a whole list on ShopMyShelf! Vitamin C is tricky, unstable molecule and I believe some of these are the best. Check it out here. My recent favorite has been the Tetra-C by Medik8, its a wonderful match even for those of you with sensitive skin.
ÁMEZING REMINDERS
I’m back and working! Remember, the studio is closed every Thursday, Saturday and Sunday, unless specified otherwise. Oh, and Teoscar Hernandez won the home run derby! GO DODGERS!
In love with all of this!
Thank you for the recs! Definitely trying Korres, and will watch Skincare as soon as it’s out in theatres!