#14: OFF TO AN ÁMEZING NEW(S) YEAR!
+ My visit to the Japanese Head Spa, Lip Oils & ÁMEZING prizes!
WHY SHOULD WE CARE ABOUT SCALP CARE?
I’m sure many of you noticed the rise of scalp care, starting with the popularity of detoxifying shampoos and scalp massagers. Scalp care is officially on the menu!
As I’ve mentioned before, this issue is personal for me as I’ve struggled with seborrheic dermatitis since I was a teen. Commonly referred to as dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis is essentially an inflammation of the sebaceous glands that occurs in oily areas of the skin.
My scalp composition changed at the start of puberty. woke up one day and my hair and scalp just felt so different. It was oily, flaky and I really had no idea how to manage it. For about a decade, I no hair care fun. 10+ years stuck in T-gel world (the most popular treatment shampoo). I could never stray away from it and try out other shampoos or conditioners.
Fast forward to 2022! I I complimented a client on her truly beautiful hair. It was dark, shiny, and it really gave HEALTH. She recommended Arisa Watanabe at Blow Me Away Salon, an organic full-service hair salon and Japanese head spa on 3rd street. I booked an appointment right away (3 months out, Arisa is a VERY busy woman). She’s not only a founder of the salon, but also the creator of its signature product line NEKKO. Arisa identifies not only as a head spa technician, but a trained trichologist (someone who studies the hair and scalp).
Honestly, I tried not to hype up the appointment for myself. I had listened to the advice of homeopathic doctors, rinsed my hair in apple cider vinegar, invested in countless treatment products, and experimented with just about any other method I came across. None of this ever improved my hair and scalp THAT MUCH.
The staff at Blow Me Away is really nice and welcoming. I was a bit nervous and embarrassed at the state of my scalp! We immediately started the imaging/scanning process as I told her my history. This was the moment I knew I finally was working with someone who was going to complete the puzzle with me. The photos are fascinating. Let me show you the before and after before I get into the details of the treatment!
The first image you see here is a micro-image of my scalp before treatment. As someone with SD, you can see a lot of oil encapsulating the hair follicles. As Arisa pointed out, it’s very difficult to see what my scalp look like because there is so much oil and sebum built up. She also noted that the redness is inflammation – you can see underlying pockets of redness in the image. She encouraged me to be mindful of sugar particularly.
This second photo is my “after” image. The most stark difference is the visibility of the scalp (you can actually see my scalp). The flakes and oil build up around the follicles are no long there because they’ve been dissolved. The inflammation is much more visible now in the image now (which is actually a good thing). That’s something that will gradually improve with more frequent use of the pre-cleanse and shampoo and of course more treatments. I could not believe the huge improvement in just one treatment.
So what actually happened? There are so many beautiful steps to the process…but here’s my attempt to put it concisely…
The ambience in the treatment room is dark and calming. She double shampoos you with her signature Nekko shampoo and massages your scalp with the most incredible hand choreography. Then she applies a treatment mask for the scalp, which tingles immediately upon application. She proceeds to place a hot wrap around the hair, and the sensation alone is incredibly relaxing.
I opted to include a conditioning treatment as well which lends to even more scalp massage and stimulation. I snored, I dreamt and I woke up in a total state of bliss.
From the process alone, even before we took the “after” image of my scalp, I could just feel that my scalp was finally breathing, a feeling I hadn’t felt in probably 15 years. WILD! All I could think was finally my scalp was happy and now I would continue to do whatever maintenance it took to keep it this way.
That’s meant washing my hair more frequently, using the Nekko pre-cleanse product and shampoo, and massaging my scalp regularly. I had always been told to not wash my hair more than once a week, but when you have excess oil, it is an absolute must to wash more frequently. Since I’m active, I now wash my scalp and hair two or three times per week.
I apply the Nekko pre-cleanse before I get in the shower and really massage my scalp for about five minutes. This is what breaks the oil and product build up. I have gone through bottles and bottles of this and I will never stop using it! I follow it up with the Nekko shampoo and alternate the Christophe Robin exfoliating scrub that I adore as well. Massage is a great way to target the nervous system and to encourage blood flow and circulation to the head. Hair= head= brain. So get in there, use your hands, a gua sha tool or even a scalp stimulator… your body will thank you!
To this day, my scalp has done a 180. It is happier, lighter with far more manageable symptoms of seborrheic dermatitis that I can now easily work with. My hair itself grows faster I’ve noticed and there is a vitality now that I didn’t really see before. I can even have more “hair fun” and try different shampoos where that was not even an option for me before. And of course, I have Arisa to thank for her guidance and expertise.
If you’re a professional who wants to learn more about Arisa’s head spa care methods through a digital course, check it out for purchase here.
For the rest of you, I asked Arisa some questions about how you can start caring for your scalp! Keep reading for her tips.
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What advice do you have for people who have never really looked or considered their scalp at all?
A healthy scalp promotes a conducive environment for hair growth and enhances the quality of hair. Conversely, scalp issues may lead to hair thinning or damage. Scalp health is closely tied to the overall health of your hair.
For individuals who haven’t focused on their scalp, it’s crucial to recognize that, much like facial skin, the scalp is a piece of skin subject to aging processes. While people often prioritize facial care, it’s equally important to regularly check for signs like dandruff, inflammation, and indications of hair thinning or loss on the scalp. Conducting thorough scalp examinations allows for proactive and targeted care, contributing to overall scalp health and promoting well-being for your hair.
What should everyone’s first step in beginning their scalp care journey?
A healthy hair care routine begins with establishing a proper washing regimen. The use of an amino acid shampoo (gentle shampoo) and washing your hair and scalp at an appropriate frequency is crucial. Contrary to the myth that “washing every day is not good for hair,” the reality is that it varies based on individual hair types and scalp conditions. Remember, beautiful hair starts with a healthy scalp. Utilizing a suitable amino acid shampoo and maintaining an appropriate washing frequency can significantly contribute to the maintenance of beautiful hair. It’s not inherently harmful to wash daily; rather, it’s essential to adjust the washing frequency according to individual needs.
What kind of habits are foundational to scalp health?
To boost scalp health at home, integrate regular scalp massages into your routine for improved blood circulation and potential support for better hair growth. Massage your scalp everyday to improve circulation. Blood carries nutrients and oxygen to your hair follicles to promote hair growth.
Consider adding scalp care products to your routine. Alternate these with your preferred hair shampoo for a balanced approach.
Pay attention to thorough rinsing before shampooing and after. Rinsing prior helps remove over 50% of buildup, ensuring a cleaner scalp. After using shampoo and conditioner, proper rinsing prevents residue, reducing the risk of dandruff and irritation.
Really, scalp care is the same as your most essential skincare practices – thorough cleansing, nourishing, and optimal hydration. Using a suitable shampoo and conditioner, maintaining a balanced diet, and managing stress further contribute to comprehensive scalp care, all achievable within the comfort of your home. Incorporating these mindful rinsing practices enhances your overall scalp care routine. Healthy hair begins with a happy scalp.
For more scalp care knowledge, follow Arisa on IG here and Tik Tok here!
Explore my entire SCALP CARE section on ShopMyShelf!
ÁMEZING BRAND: TECUANE
Tecuane is a clean hair care brand rooted in Mexican culture, gender fluidity, luxury, and botanicals. The brand’s founder Anissa is a veteran hair stylist from Oxnard, CA, now living in LA. She spoke to us about her approach to scalp care and Tecuane’s incredible Esperanza Scalp Tonic.
“I grew up watching my Tia work her magic in a beauty salon, and absorbing all things creative. My hair rituals are inspired by the women who raised me (my mother, my abuela, and my Nina). They always put effort into their hairstyles and looks, making it a point to feel confident and presentable.
Tecuane is a gender fluid, luxury clean hair care brand honoring all hair types. Dedicated to and inspired by my grandmother's love of herbal home remedies and my love for haircare. Our products are infused with botanical plants, proteins, amino acids, and plant collagen to support a healthy scalp and may encourage hair growth. Our mission is to share sustainable, diverse, and mindful methods of haircare with all generations…all while implementing protocols for environmental responsibility in the process.
Our scalp is an important component to our health. The scalp should be cared for the same way as the skin. Like our skin, your scalp can become dry and irritated. If not properly taken of, this can lead to hair loss. It’s vital to hydrate and nourish the scalp to establish a healthy scalp environment for new hair growth.
I dedicate 5-10 minutes to my self care routine daily, in the morning and at night. I start with a few drops of Esperanza Scalp Tonic throughout my scalp, then a 3 minute scalp massage, starting at my temples and working down to my nape. This helps stimulate the blood flow, and helps my mind transition to a meditation state. Practicing mindfulness daily allows me to feel enlightened and focused.
Some of my clientele can wear hairstyles or wigs up to 12+ hours a day. It’s important for me to protect the integrity of my client’s hair and scalp at all times during filming. I needed to develop a product that would work with a large range of hair textures, provide many benefits for a healthy scalp environment, and be eco-friendly. I created Tecuane out of necessity. ”
Thanks Anissa! Follow Tecuane on Instagram here.
WHY ARE LIP OILS EVERYWHERE?
Emotional support lip glosses are nothing new. I remember going into middle school armed with an arsenal of at least 12 of them in the front pocket of my Jansport everyday. That was 2005.
So when the Dior Lip Addict Glow oil went viral the minute it launched in 2020, amid unprecedentedly uncertain times, I understood that for many, it was an emotional support lip oil. Loneliness epidemic? Sure! But are you ever really that lonely if there's a lip oil in your pocket or purse? Especially if the doe foot applicator is so cushiony it could almost substitute for a real human kiss…
Another deep breath… Another swipe of lip oil…
The Dior Addict Lip Glow Oil was the perfect product for the highly groomed but minimalistic aesthetic that’s dominated culture for the last few years. The shine was natural but perfect, and the plump, signature applicator paired with the oil-based formula to offer a pleasurable sensory experience. The aesthetic of the product itself, in its cute little clear and silver cube, was just as important as the aesthetic it bestowed. Also, the size of the product was the perfect companion to the mico-era’s micro-purse trend.
Since then, lip oils have become a transformational product category that’s here to stay. They’re characterized by their smooth shine, lightweight feel, and nourishing ingredients. They’re an extension of skincare culture, imparting a gloss and glaze that feels more like a treatment than a cosmetic. Lip glosses make your lips look hydrated, but lip oils promise to actually moisturize them. Some of the best lip oils contain proprietary ingredients that target specific concerns like reducing the appearance of wrinkles and boosting the lip’s volume and shape. Think vitamins, antioxidants, plant extracts, and other botanical blends. [This also might be why some lip oils can be pricier than their gloss equivalents…their ingredients are better!]
This means even if you’re not a lipgloss girlie, a lip oil might be an elevated option in place of your usual lip balm. You can be a no makeup person who hates lipstick and gloss and still find a place for lip oils in your routine. The feel is slick and natural, even with tinted formulas, versus the thick, shellac feel of our beloved Juicy Tubes and other classic glosses. [These days, Lancome even markets Juicy Tubes as “sticky” to counter the narrative that sticky is derogatory. According to Lancome, sticky means long-lasting shine you don’t need to reapply!]
While plenty of other brands came out with their own lip oils after the virality in 2020 [Ami Colé, NYX, Clarins, Merit, Ilia, Kosas, U-Beauty and Rare Beauty], others are still launching every week [most recently, ELF, Naturium, Summer Fridays, and Too Faced, among others]
Andrea tells me, “Lip oils feel like the new generation of lip glosses. There is something approachable and fearless about this new generation of lip oils, it really feels like HAVE FUN, pair it with a liner or layer on top of your favorite satin lipstick, there are NO RULES.
Below, she tells me about her favorite lip oils of the bunch.
– Tierney
Saie Glossybounce™ High-Shine Hydrating Lip Gloss Oil
Such a versatile color range! Of course I’m biased ‘cuz I did the campaign with them, but these are truly great. I reach for these even when my lips are even more dry than usual, and you feel immediate relief. I reach for “KISS,” the most clear shade.
Westman Atelier Squeaky Clean Liquid Lip Balm
(This may even be a category of its own) but the technical name of this product is “Liquid Lip Balm” A gloss meets balm treatment whose ingredients are mostly comprised of oils (so for me, I consider this to be a lip oil!) Packaging is a true 10/10 and the hydration is instantaneous. Definitely pricier but worth it in my opinion! Tierney loves this one too, esp in the pale pink shade “chou chou.”
I have to shout this one out because I have used this product for at least 7 years and it really stood out. I often gifted this product as it felt so unique especially for the time– a luxury lip oil… i’ll take 5 and I DID. And because this was clear it was a universal choice for all my friends and their unique skin tones. You cannot go wrong gifting a clear or neutral, sheer pink as they can be used in conjunction with other pigments (I’m also a huge fan of lip layering for that custom color snatch!)
These were gifted to me and I kept shade Mocha for myself and gave the others away to friends. And the consensus is I love the feel and the affordability!
These are also OG and were a moment. And I think this sort of proves the trend of lip oils taking over the lip gloss space. Now that there are so many lip oil competitors, I’m much more inclined to try a smaller beauty company whose ingredient transparency might be more clear to us as consumers. I also think these are just very expensive! But I give them the credit where credit is due.
Covergirl Clean, Fresh,Yummy Lip Gloss
Tierney and I discovered these together while on a trip to CVS this summer. These are high SHINE, somewhere between a gloss and oil feel and they are amazing. The feel and packaging is 90s nostalgia all over again and my honest review is that they are an affordable Dior dupe, I highly recommend these!
ÁMEZING GIVEAWAY: GIFTS FOR OUR READERS!
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ÁMEZING UPDATES
Happy new year to all! I've always found January to be an odd month (love my capricorns tho) with resolution and expectation talk. It's like…I’m constantly setting up those for myself, and I actually mean constantly… Somehow this feels healthier for me, personally. For me, winter is more of a time for hibernation and rest. I’m actually writing this note to you from New York, where I’m working and its snowing right now…how idyllic is that?
I hope all of you are recovering post holidays and taking care of yourselves in whatever way that means for you. I’ve had a lot of travel this January and am getting to your appointment emails. See you in my studio soon ;)
amezing news never misses, always so informative!!
i've been trying to get into hair care more so would love to know of natural DIY hair masques and/or affordable masques to start with xx
romrkim24@gmail.com
thank you sooo much for the scalp care intel! needed that. i'd like to echo the comments expressing curiosity about facial massage– would love a deep dive into that topic. also, body hair care! caring for skin/hair amidst waxing, shaving, etc.
ariel.lebeau@gmail.com